CA1138341A - Waving composition from a reducing agent and cationic polymer - Google Patents
Waving composition from a reducing agent and cationic polymerInfo
- Publication number
- CA1138341A CA1138341A CA000348455A CA348455A CA1138341A CA 1138341 A CA1138341 A CA 1138341A CA 000348455 A CA000348455 A CA 000348455A CA 348455 A CA348455 A CA 348455A CA 1138341 A CA1138341 A CA 1138341A
- Authority
- CA
- Canada
- Prior art keywords
- hair
- waving
- weight
- reducing agent
- cationic polymer
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
- A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
- A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
- A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE
A process for waving or straightening hair that leaves the hair in conditioned form which comprises treating the hair with a novel hair waving composition containing a reducing agent and certain cationic polymers followed by treating said hair with a "neutralizing" composition containing an oxidizing agent and an anionic or amphoteric detergent.
A process for waving or straightening hair that leaves the hair in conditioned form which comprises treating the hair with a novel hair waving composition containing a reducing agent and certain cationic polymers followed by treating said hair with a "neutralizing" composition containing an oxidizing agent and an anionic or amphoteric detergent.
Description
3~
HAIR ~AVING OR STRAIGHTENING PROCESS
THAT S~MULTANEOUSLY CONDITIONS HAIR AND HAIR
W~VING COMPOSITION FOR T~IS PROCESS
This invention relates to compositions for waving or straightening hair, and especially h~man hair, and to processes for effecting the same. More particularly, it concerns compositions and methods of the aforesaid character S which leaves the hair in a conditioned or impxoved manner.
Waving or straightening of hair with reducing agents such as mercaptans, sulfites or phosphines is almost invariably accompanied by deterioration of tactile proper-ties of hair, increased tangling and difficult combing.
This i5 true for all types of hair and particularly bother-some for hair which, prior to wavlng, had been exposed to bleaching, coloring or prolonged weathering. The conventional way to ameliorate this situation is to treat the wa~ed hair with conditioning agents such as alkyl-dimethyl benzyl halides, emulsions of mineral oil, lanolin, etc. Conditioning agents of this type are usually incorporated in the neutralizing step of the waving or tha straightening process. While these conditioning compounds improve ~he feel of hair and allow for easier combing, their beneficial efects are only transitory and are entirely lost when the hair is shampooed.
It has now been found that durable conditioning of hair during a hair waving or a hair straightening operation that i5 superior in its effects to con~entional techniques can be obtained by first treating the hair with a reducing composition containing certain specific cationic polymers ; defined in more detail below followed by the trea~ment of the hair with a neutralizing formulation containing an anionic or an amphoteric surfactant. As a result of the ~: `. .t,~
. ~
' ~ . , ; ~ , ' '' f~
sequence of the waving (or straightening) and neutralizing steps and a unique combinat.ion of ingredients, a conditioning complex, stable to repeated shampooings, is formed in the hair.
It is accordingly an object of this invention to provide a process for waving or straighte.ning hair which leaves the hair in a conditioned fashion which resists xepeated shampooings.
It is also an object of the present invention to provide compositions which are useful ;in carrying out the aforesaid process.
Other and more detailed objects of this invention will be apparent from the following description and claims.
The cationic polymers that are useful for the purpose of the present invention are from a few relatively narrow classes. The first class are polyquaternium-l polymers sold by Onyx Chemical Company under the trade mark "ONAMæR M"
i.e. polymers of dimethyl butenyl chloride terminated with quaternized ethanolamine. These may be described by the formula:
_ _ Cl~
OH-CH2CH2 \CH3 / CH2CH2OH
(I) OH-CH2-CH2--NCH2CH--CH-CH2--N- CH2-CH = CH~12--N ~CH2CH2H
OH-CH2CH~CH3 CH2CH2O
n : 20 will have a molecular weight in the range of from about 800 to about 5000 and preferably in the range of from about 1000 to 3000. By way of illustrating polymers of this type that may be useful for the present purposes, the following may be mentioned:
' '~'1'~
; .., . `
. .
' :
3~
ONAMER M as a commercial product that corresponds to formula I above has a molecular weight that ranges over 1000 to 3000, with an average molecular weight of about 2000.
Another class of cationic polymers that may be employed in the present invention are polymers of quaternized polyvinylamine. These can be described by the generalized formula:
, _ __ ~3_--CEI2--C~ _ I
; 10 (II) Rl~ N ~ R2 R3 X n where Rl, R2 and R3 are either the same or different radicals and represent alkyl group having up to 20 carbon atoms and X is an anion such as halide (e.g. iodide or chloride) sulfate or carboxylate. These ordinarily will have a molecular weight in the range of from about S000 to about 100,000. By way of example, mention may be made of t~imethyl polyvinyl ammonium sulfate which may be described by the formula:
- ~ CH - f~ - CH - CH ~ _ (III) CH3-~ - CH3 -~
CH3 CX3 SO4; n Average M.W~ about 50,000 The third class of useful cationic materials are ; 25 polymers of ~uaternized polyvinylpyridine. These are described by the general formula:
;
~3~
--gs~
~ - C~2 - CH ~ - _ /~
(IV) ~ N ~
R n Where R is an alkyl radical of Cl-C20 and the X is an an.ion such as a halide, sulfate or carboxylate. These also will have a molecular weight in the range of from abou-t 5000 to about 100/000.
As an example of the cationic polymer of this group, the following may be men-tioned:
.~ ~ _ .
- C~2 ~ CH _ (V~ ~ .
.CH3 I n polyvinyl methyl pyridinium iodide Averaye M.W. 50,000 As mentioned ahove, the particular cationic polymers described will be contained in the waving lotion employed in the present invention. The quantity of cationic polymer that will be present in the~e waving lotions may vary somewhat depending on the results that are desired. Ordin-arily, this will constitute between about .2~ to about 10~ by weight based on the total weight of the waving lotion with the optimal range being between about 1~ to about 5~ by weight of the waving lotion.
In addition to the cationic pol~mer, the waving lotion employed in this invention may also contain other conven-tional ingredients commonly employed in such waving lotion.
, . ..
,:
, .
~3~f~k~
; Thus~ the vehicle Eor the lotion will be an aqueous vehicle which will have incorporated therein one or more reducing agentsO A variety of reduci.ng agents are known in the prior art which are useful in waviny or straightening hair. By way of example, we might mention: thioglycollic acid, cysteine, thiolactic acid, sodium-, potassium-, and ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, tris(hydroxyethyl phosphine). In the preferred form of this invention, the reducing agents that will be employecl are thioglycollic acid and alkali metal salts e.g. sodium salts of sulfurQus acids (e.g. sulfites and bisulites).
The ~uantity of reducing agent contained in the wa~ing lotion will also vary somewhat depending on the agent selected and the results desired. Usually, however, the waving lotlon will contain from about 0.5% to about 20 by weight o~ reducing agent based on the total weight of the waving lotion. Optimal results are obtained when the reducing agent comprises from about 2% to about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the lotion.
In addition, the waving lotion may also contain fragrances, alkalizing agents and other conventional waving lotion ingredients. Moreover, it will also generally have a pH in the range of from about 5 to about 10.
The second essential component of the present con-ditioning system are amphoteric or anionic detergents which will ordinarily constitute part of the neutralizing lotion.
There are a number of amphoteric detergents that are suit-able fox use in the present invention. Howevex, two classes of detergents have been found to be especially efective.
The first class can be defined by the formula:
fH2COONa ' . , , .3~
in which R is a long chain fatty radical containing from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. A typical example of such a compound or compounds is the case in which R represents coconut fatty radicals. A material o this character is sold under the trade mark MIRANOL C2~F and is described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (1973) under ~he name AM2HOTERIC-2.
A second class of amphoteric detergents that is particularly efective or the purposes of the present invention can be deined by the formula:
~ ~ NH - CH2 - CH2- COOH
wherein R is a long chain ~atty alkyl group haviny from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. An example of such a detergent is marketed under the trade mark DERIPHAT 170C in which the R
in the formula is a mixture of lauxyl and myristyl fatty alkyl groups. This material is described in the CTFA
: Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary tl973) as Lauraminopropionic Acid.
All anionic detexgents tested have been found useful in this invention; thus, salts of alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, sulfona-ted and sulfated alkyl ~thers as well as long chain carboxylic acid (where the chain length is at least C10) exhibit formation of conditioning complexes.
By way of specifically illustrating the anionic detergents th t are useful herein, the following may be mentioned:
sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, TEA
lauryl sulfate, sodium stearate, etc.
The ~uantity of amphotPric or anionic detergent which will be contained in the neutralizing lotion of this in~en~
tion will vary somewhat again depending on the economics and the results sought. Howevex, usually this will be in the xange of from about 0.2 to about 50~ by welght and ideally, in the range of from about 005~ to about 20% by . - 6 -~ ' .
, 3~3~
~7~
weight based on the total weight of the neutalizing lo-tion.
The neutralizing lotion may also contain other ingred-ients usually employed in ~uch neutralizing lotions that are utilized in hair waving or hair straightening procedures.
~ 5 Again, the vehicle will ordinarily be an aqueous vehicle ; which will contain an oxidizing agent that will serve to ~ neutralize~ the action of the reducing agent contained '~ in the reducing agent contained in the waving lotion after -` the latter has been applied to the head. A number of oxidizing agents are known to those skilled in this art which will accomplish this purpose. These include hydro,gen peroxidel sodium- and potassium- bromates, sodium perborate, etc.
The quantity of oxidizing agent that will be contained in the neutralizing lotion may also vary somewhat; again, depending on the agent selected and the results desired.
For the most part, this will comprise between about 0.2%
to about 20% by weight of the neutralizing lotion based on the total weight of said neutralizing lotion. In a preferred form o the in~ention, the oxidizing agent will constitute about 1~ to about 10~ by weight based on the total weight ' of the neutralizing lotion.
In addition to the above, among the other ingredients that may be contained in the neutralizing lotion, mention may be made of such materials as organic and inorganic acids (e.g~ phosphoric, citric acid, etc.). The pH of tne neutralizing lotion will usually be in the range of from about 2 to about 9.
The following specific Examples are intended to illus-trate more fully the nature of the present invention withoutlimiting its scope.
'' ;' .
~L3~3~
Waving Lo~ion - A hair waving lotion was prepared having the following composition:
_b~
Ammonium thioglycollate 7.0 Monoethanolamine 3.5 Fragrance 0.1 * ONAMER M 3.0 Water to 100.0 Neutralizing Lotion - This was prepared havi.ng the following composi~ion:
~ _y Wt.
Ammonium lauryl sulfate 3~0 ~ydrogen peroxide 1.4 Phosphoric acid 0.1 Water to 100.0 In addition to the above samples, both the waving lotion and the neutralizer have been prepared without the cationic polymer and the anionic detergent respectively.
Four ~ets of intact caucasian hair tresses were waved under identical conditions of time and temperature followed by rinsing and neutrali~ation. The tresses were wound on 1/2 I inch rods and two o them saturated with the waving lotion containing ONAMER M while the other two were saturated with the waving lotion without ~he ONAMER M. All tresses were then wrapped in Saran Wrap and placed for 20 minutes in an oven kept at 35C. Aftex this time, the waving lotion was rinsed off and the tresses, while still on rods, were treated for S minutes with the neutralizing solutions. The neutralizing solution containing ammonium lauryl sulfate was applied to two waved tresses ~one waved with and one without the ONAMER M~
* aN~MER M: trade mark. A~. M~W. about 2000 given by manufactur~r, 30% aqueous solution.
` "~
.
- . , ~:
.,,: :
, ~,, ' .
: , i ~ ~ 31~
9~
';' while the other two were exposed to the neutrali~er in which ammonium lauryl sulfate was absent.
:`
It was found that only in the case of the waved hair tress where the waving solution employed contained ; 5 polymer and the neutralizer contained the anionic detergent, was it soft, lus~rous and conditioned. The effect was found to be resistant to at least four shampoos.
In Example 2 below~ the embodiments of the in~ention are directly compared with the products available now on - 10 the market. In one of the products (Product I) a cationic polymer i.e. a high molecular weight polydimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride is present in the waving solution and a cationic conditioner is used in the neutralizing step. The other product, Product II, contains no polymer in the waving lotion but claims a conditioner in the neutralizing solution., EX~MPLE 2 The foll,owing waving composition was prepared:
~ by W-t.
;', Ammonium sulfite 3.0 Sodium sulfite 2.0 ONAMER M 5,0 Cysteine HCl 0.2 Water to 100.0 The neutralizing lotion has the following composition: '' % b~_Wt.
Sodium bromate 6.0 * ~mmonium laureth sulfate 6.0 Preservative 0.1 ' Fra~rance 0.1 Water to 100.0 The procedures utilized for each product are briefly described as follows:
* CTFA name .
, , ' :
" ~, .
., :
.
3~
--10~
` Product I Procedure:
. .
; Clean (shampooed), damp tresses are wound on rods, using end papers. The activator and stabilizer of Product I
are poured into the shaping lotion. After shaking well for 30 seconds, the lotion is applied to the pre-wrapped tresses ~mtil the hair is well saturated. The tresses are then placed in a 35 oven ~or 35 minutes. Tresses are then rinsed under tap water for 2 minutes. Aft~r the rinse, hair is removed from the rods and treated with Pxoduct I conditioner (optional step), working it into the hair well. After 1 minute, the hair is thoroughly rinsed.
Product II Procedure:
" Waving lotion applied to clean tshamPooed), damp tresses, and wound on rods, using end papers. Hair resaturated with lotion, wxapped in plastic wrap and placed in 35 oven for 1 hour. Tres,s then rinsed under tap water for 3 minutes.
Excess water blotted with paper towel ~nd tress saturated with neutralizer. After 10 minutes at 35, tress removed ' from rod, neutralizer worked through the hair, and hair then ; 20 rinsed thoroughly. Hair combed and hung to air dry.
Pr cedure_for Present Invention:
The procedure was as that described above in connect ion with Product II up to the water rinse for 2 minutes after 1 hour treatment. A~ter rinse, hair was removed from rod and treated with 1 cc. of bromate neutxalizer, the latter was worked into a lather and left on hair ~or 5 minutes, ' followed by thorough rinsing.
,~ Each of khe above procedures was per~ormed on six tresses of both virgin and three-times dyed tressesO
The waved tresses were evaluated for wet and dry '~ combability utilizing ~he techni~ue for these measurements as ;~ describ~d by Garcia and Diaz (J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 27, 379, ''~ 1976). The test essentially involves passing o~ a hair tress '' ..
3~
through a comb attached to a strain gauge which in turn is connected to a recording device. Work is expended to accom-plish the passage of the hair tress through the comb, and this work, read o~f the integrator, is the objective measure of combing ease/dlfficulty. The greater the values, the harde.r i~ is to comb the hair and thus the less conditioned the hair is. The data for both virgin and dyed hair tresses are given in Table I.
TABLE I
Wet and Dry Combability of Waved Hair Work of Combing (gcm~
Virgin Hair Dyed Hair Product Wet Dry Wet Dry Control (no waving) 337 277 2567 360~
; Product I 363 225 1979 2392 Product II 682 273 3060 1392 Present Invention 142 217 260 361 There was no significant change in conditioning ranking of these products after as many as six repeated applications.
Although the invention has been described with reference to specific forms thereof, it will be understood that many changes and modifications may be made without depar-ting from the spirit of this invention.
HAIR ~AVING OR STRAIGHTENING PROCESS
THAT S~MULTANEOUSLY CONDITIONS HAIR AND HAIR
W~VING COMPOSITION FOR T~IS PROCESS
This invention relates to compositions for waving or straightening hair, and especially h~man hair, and to processes for effecting the same. More particularly, it concerns compositions and methods of the aforesaid character S which leaves the hair in a conditioned or impxoved manner.
Waving or straightening of hair with reducing agents such as mercaptans, sulfites or phosphines is almost invariably accompanied by deterioration of tactile proper-ties of hair, increased tangling and difficult combing.
This i5 true for all types of hair and particularly bother-some for hair which, prior to wavlng, had been exposed to bleaching, coloring or prolonged weathering. The conventional way to ameliorate this situation is to treat the wa~ed hair with conditioning agents such as alkyl-dimethyl benzyl halides, emulsions of mineral oil, lanolin, etc. Conditioning agents of this type are usually incorporated in the neutralizing step of the waving or tha straightening process. While these conditioning compounds improve ~he feel of hair and allow for easier combing, their beneficial efects are only transitory and are entirely lost when the hair is shampooed.
It has now been found that durable conditioning of hair during a hair waving or a hair straightening operation that i5 superior in its effects to con~entional techniques can be obtained by first treating the hair with a reducing composition containing certain specific cationic polymers ; defined in more detail below followed by the trea~ment of the hair with a neutralizing formulation containing an anionic or an amphoteric surfactant. As a result of the ~: `. .t,~
. ~
' ~ . , ; ~ , ' '' f~
sequence of the waving (or straightening) and neutralizing steps and a unique combinat.ion of ingredients, a conditioning complex, stable to repeated shampooings, is formed in the hair.
It is accordingly an object of this invention to provide a process for waving or straighte.ning hair which leaves the hair in a conditioned fashion which resists xepeated shampooings.
It is also an object of the present invention to provide compositions which are useful ;in carrying out the aforesaid process.
Other and more detailed objects of this invention will be apparent from the following description and claims.
The cationic polymers that are useful for the purpose of the present invention are from a few relatively narrow classes. The first class are polyquaternium-l polymers sold by Onyx Chemical Company under the trade mark "ONAMæR M"
i.e. polymers of dimethyl butenyl chloride terminated with quaternized ethanolamine. These may be described by the formula:
_ _ Cl~
OH-CH2CH2 \CH3 / CH2CH2OH
(I) OH-CH2-CH2--NCH2CH--CH-CH2--N- CH2-CH = CH~12--N ~CH2CH2H
OH-CH2CH~CH3 CH2CH2O
n : 20 will have a molecular weight in the range of from about 800 to about 5000 and preferably in the range of from about 1000 to 3000. By way of illustrating polymers of this type that may be useful for the present purposes, the following may be mentioned:
' '~'1'~
; .., . `
. .
' :
3~
ONAMER M as a commercial product that corresponds to formula I above has a molecular weight that ranges over 1000 to 3000, with an average molecular weight of about 2000.
Another class of cationic polymers that may be employed in the present invention are polymers of quaternized polyvinylamine. These can be described by the generalized formula:
, _ __ ~3_--CEI2--C~ _ I
; 10 (II) Rl~ N ~ R2 R3 X n where Rl, R2 and R3 are either the same or different radicals and represent alkyl group having up to 20 carbon atoms and X is an anion such as halide (e.g. iodide or chloride) sulfate or carboxylate. These ordinarily will have a molecular weight in the range of from about S000 to about 100,000. By way of example, mention may be made of t~imethyl polyvinyl ammonium sulfate which may be described by the formula:
- ~ CH - f~ - CH - CH ~ _ (III) CH3-~ - CH3 -~
CH3 CX3 SO4; n Average M.W~ about 50,000 The third class of useful cationic materials are ; 25 polymers of ~uaternized polyvinylpyridine. These are described by the general formula:
;
~3~
--gs~
~ - C~2 - CH ~ - _ /~
(IV) ~ N ~
R n Where R is an alkyl radical of Cl-C20 and the X is an an.ion such as a halide, sulfate or carboxylate. These also will have a molecular weight in the range of from abou-t 5000 to about 100/000.
As an example of the cationic polymer of this group, the following may be men-tioned:
.~ ~ _ .
- C~2 ~ CH _ (V~ ~ .
.CH3 I n polyvinyl methyl pyridinium iodide Averaye M.W. 50,000 As mentioned ahove, the particular cationic polymers described will be contained in the waving lotion employed in the present invention. The quantity of cationic polymer that will be present in the~e waving lotions may vary somewhat depending on the results that are desired. Ordin-arily, this will constitute between about .2~ to about 10~ by weight based on the total weight of the waving lotion with the optimal range being between about 1~ to about 5~ by weight of the waving lotion.
In addition to the cationic pol~mer, the waving lotion employed in this invention may also contain other conven-tional ingredients commonly employed in such waving lotion.
, . ..
,:
, .
~3~f~k~
; Thus~ the vehicle Eor the lotion will be an aqueous vehicle which will have incorporated therein one or more reducing agentsO A variety of reduci.ng agents are known in the prior art which are useful in waviny or straightening hair. By way of example, we might mention: thioglycollic acid, cysteine, thiolactic acid, sodium-, potassium-, and ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, tris(hydroxyethyl phosphine). In the preferred form of this invention, the reducing agents that will be employecl are thioglycollic acid and alkali metal salts e.g. sodium salts of sulfurQus acids (e.g. sulfites and bisulites).
The ~uantity of reducing agent contained in the wa~ing lotion will also vary somewhat depending on the agent selected and the results desired. Usually, however, the waving lotlon will contain from about 0.5% to about 20 by weight o~ reducing agent based on the total weight of the waving lotion. Optimal results are obtained when the reducing agent comprises from about 2% to about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the lotion.
In addition, the waving lotion may also contain fragrances, alkalizing agents and other conventional waving lotion ingredients. Moreover, it will also generally have a pH in the range of from about 5 to about 10.
The second essential component of the present con-ditioning system are amphoteric or anionic detergents which will ordinarily constitute part of the neutralizing lotion.
There are a number of amphoteric detergents that are suit-able fox use in the present invention. Howevex, two classes of detergents have been found to be especially efective.
The first class can be defined by the formula:
fH2COONa ' . , , .3~
in which R is a long chain fatty radical containing from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. A typical example of such a compound or compounds is the case in which R represents coconut fatty radicals. A material o this character is sold under the trade mark MIRANOL C2~F and is described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (1973) under ~he name AM2HOTERIC-2.
A second class of amphoteric detergents that is particularly efective or the purposes of the present invention can be deined by the formula:
~ ~ NH - CH2 - CH2- COOH
wherein R is a long chain ~atty alkyl group haviny from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. An example of such a detergent is marketed under the trade mark DERIPHAT 170C in which the R
in the formula is a mixture of lauxyl and myristyl fatty alkyl groups. This material is described in the CTFA
: Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary tl973) as Lauraminopropionic Acid.
All anionic detexgents tested have been found useful in this invention; thus, salts of alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, sulfona-ted and sulfated alkyl ~thers as well as long chain carboxylic acid (where the chain length is at least C10) exhibit formation of conditioning complexes.
By way of specifically illustrating the anionic detergents th t are useful herein, the following may be mentioned:
sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, TEA
lauryl sulfate, sodium stearate, etc.
The ~uantity of amphotPric or anionic detergent which will be contained in the neutralizing lotion of this in~en~
tion will vary somewhat again depending on the economics and the results sought. Howevex, usually this will be in the xange of from about 0.2 to about 50~ by welght and ideally, in the range of from about 005~ to about 20% by . - 6 -~ ' .
, 3~3~
~7~
weight based on the total weight of the neutalizing lo-tion.
The neutralizing lotion may also contain other ingred-ients usually employed in ~uch neutralizing lotions that are utilized in hair waving or hair straightening procedures.
~ 5 Again, the vehicle will ordinarily be an aqueous vehicle ; which will contain an oxidizing agent that will serve to ~ neutralize~ the action of the reducing agent contained '~ in the reducing agent contained in the waving lotion after -` the latter has been applied to the head. A number of oxidizing agents are known to those skilled in this art which will accomplish this purpose. These include hydro,gen peroxidel sodium- and potassium- bromates, sodium perborate, etc.
The quantity of oxidizing agent that will be contained in the neutralizing lotion may also vary somewhat; again, depending on the agent selected and the results desired.
For the most part, this will comprise between about 0.2%
to about 20% by weight of the neutralizing lotion based on the total weight of said neutralizing lotion. In a preferred form o the in~ention, the oxidizing agent will constitute about 1~ to about 10~ by weight based on the total weight ' of the neutralizing lotion.
In addition to the above, among the other ingredients that may be contained in the neutralizing lotion, mention may be made of such materials as organic and inorganic acids (e.g~ phosphoric, citric acid, etc.). The pH of tne neutralizing lotion will usually be in the range of from about 2 to about 9.
The following specific Examples are intended to illus-trate more fully the nature of the present invention withoutlimiting its scope.
'' ;' .
~L3~3~
Waving Lo~ion - A hair waving lotion was prepared having the following composition:
_b~
Ammonium thioglycollate 7.0 Monoethanolamine 3.5 Fragrance 0.1 * ONAMER M 3.0 Water to 100.0 Neutralizing Lotion - This was prepared havi.ng the following composi~ion:
~ _y Wt.
Ammonium lauryl sulfate 3~0 ~ydrogen peroxide 1.4 Phosphoric acid 0.1 Water to 100.0 In addition to the above samples, both the waving lotion and the neutralizer have been prepared without the cationic polymer and the anionic detergent respectively.
Four ~ets of intact caucasian hair tresses were waved under identical conditions of time and temperature followed by rinsing and neutrali~ation. The tresses were wound on 1/2 I inch rods and two o them saturated with the waving lotion containing ONAMER M while the other two were saturated with the waving lotion without ~he ONAMER M. All tresses were then wrapped in Saran Wrap and placed for 20 minutes in an oven kept at 35C. Aftex this time, the waving lotion was rinsed off and the tresses, while still on rods, were treated for S minutes with the neutralizing solutions. The neutralizing solution containing ammonium lauryl sulfate was applied to two waved tresses ~one waved with and one without the ONAMER M~
* aN~MER M: trade mark. A~. M~W. about 2000 given by manufactur~r, 30% aqueous solution.
` "~
.
- . , ~:
.,,: :
, ~,, ' .
: , i ~ ~ 31~
9~
';' while the other two were exposed to the neutrali~er in which ammonium lauryl sulfate was absent.
:`
It was found that only in the case of the waved hair tress where the waving solution employed contained ; 5 polymer and the neutralizer contained the anionic detergent, was it soft, lus~rous and conditioned. The effect was found to be resistant to at least four shampoos.
In Example 2 below~ the embodiments of the in~ention are directly compared with the products available now on - 10 the market. In one of the products (Product I) a cationic polymer i.e. a high molecular weight polydimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride is present in the waving solution and a cationic conditioner is used in the neutralizing step. The other product, Product II, contains no polymer in the waving lotion but claims a conditioner in the neutralizing solution., EX~MPLE 2 The foll,owing waving composition was prepared:
~ by W-t.
;', Ammonium sulfite 3.0 Sodium sulfite 2.0 ONAMER M 5,0 Cysteine HCl 0.2 Water to 100.0 The neutralizing lotion has the following composition: '' % b~_Wt.
Sodium bromate 6.0 * ~mmonium laureth sulfate 6.0 Preservative 0.1 ' Fra~rance 0.1 Water to 100.0 The procedures utilized for each product are briefly described as follows:
* CTFA name .
, , ' :
" ~, .
., :
.
3~
--10~
` Product I Procedure:
. .
; Clean (shampooed), damp tresses are wound on rods, using end papers. The activator and stabilizer of Product I
are poured into the shaping lotion. After shaking well for 30 seconds, the lotion is applied to the pre-wrapped tresses ~mtil the hair is well saturated. The tresses are then placed in a 35 oven ~or 35 minutes. Tresses are then rinsed under tap water for 2 minutes. Aft~r the rinse, hair is removed from the rods and treated with Pxoduct I conditioner (optional step), working it into the hair well. After 1 minute, the hair is thoroughly rinsed.
Product II Procedure:
" Waving lotion applied to clean tshamPooed), damp tresses, and wound on rods, using end papers. Hair resaturated with lotion, wxapped in plastic wrap and placed in 35 oven for 1 hour. Tres,s then rinsed under tap water for 3 minutes.
Excess water blotted with paper towel ~nd tress saturated with neutralizer. After 10 minutes at 35, tress removed ' from rod, neutralizer worked through the hair, and hair then ; 20 rinsed thoroughly. Hair combed and hung to air dry.
Pr cedure_for Present Invention:
The procedure was as that described above in connect ion with Product II up to the water rinse for 2 minutes after 1 hour treatment. A~ter rinse, hair was removed from rod and treated with 1 cc. of bromate neutxalizer, the latter was worked into a lather and left on hair ~or 5 minutes, ' followed by thorough rinsing.
,~ Each of khe above procedures was per~ormed on six tresses of both virgin and three-times dyed tressesO
The waved tresses were evaluated for wet and dry '~ combability utilizing ~he techni~ue for these measurements as ;~ describ~d by Garcia and Diaz (J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 27, 379, ''~ 1976). The test essentially involves passing o~ a hair tress '' ..
3~
through a comb attached to a strain gauge which in turn is connected to a recording device. Work is expended to accom-plish the passage of the hair tress through the comb, and this work, read o~f the integrator, is the objective measure of combing ease/dlfficulty. The greater the values, the harde.r i~ is to comb the hair and thus the less conditioned the hair is. The data for both virgin and dyed hair tresses are given in Table I.
TABLE I
Wet and Dry Combability of Waved Hair Work of Combing (gcm~
Virgin Hair Dyed Hair Product Wet Dry Wet Dry Control (no waving) 337 277 2567 360~
; Product I 363 225 1979 2392 Product II 682 273 3060 1392 Present Invention 142 217 260 361 There was no significant change in conditioning ranking of these products after as many as six repeated applications.
Although the invention has been described with reference to specific forms thereof, it will be understood that many changes and modifications may be made without depar-ting from the spirit of this invention.
Claims (4)
1. A process for waving or straightening hair which leaves the hair in a conditioned form which conditioning persists through repeated shampooings which comprises:
(a) treating said hair with an aqueous waving composition containing an effective amount of a reducing agent and a cationic polymer selected from the group consist-ing of:
i. polymers of dimethyl butenyl chloride terminated with quaternized ethanolamine, of the ONAMER (trade mark) type, having the formula , and having a molecular weight in the range of from about 800 to 5000;
ii. polymers of quaternized polyvinylamine having a molecular weight in the range of from about 5000 to about 100,000, of the formula (II) where R1, R2 and R3 are either the same or different radicals and represent alkyl group having up to 20 carbon atoms and X is an anion; and iii. polymers of quaternized polyvinyl pyridine having a molecular weight in the range of from about 5000 to about 100,000, of the formula (IV) where R is an alkyl radical of C1-C20 and the X is an anion;
and then treating said hair with an aqueous neutralizing composition containing:
iv. an oxidizing agent; and v. an anionic or amphoteric detergent.
(a) treating said hair with an aqueous waving composition containing an effective amount of a reducing agent and a cationic polymer selected from the group consist-ing of:
i. polymers of dimethyl butenyl chloride terminated with quaternized ethanolamine, of the ONAMER (trade mark) type, having the formula , and having a molecular weight in the range of from about 800 to 5000;
ii. polymers of quaternized polyvinylamine having a molecular weight in the range of from about 5000 to about 100,000, of the formula (II) where R1, R2 and R3 are either the same or different radicals and represent alkyl group having up to 20 carbon atoms and X is an anion; and iii. polymers of quaternized polyvinyl pyridine having a molecular weight in the range of from about 5000 to about 100,000, of the formula (IV) where R is an alkyl radical of C1-C20 and the X is an anion;
and then treating said hair with an aqueous neutralizing composition containing:
iv. an oxidizing agent; and v. an anionic or amphoteric detergent.
2. A process according to Claim l in which the waving composition contains, based on the weight of said waving composition, from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight of said reducing agent and from about 0.2% to about 10% by weight of said cationic polymer, and said neutralizing composition contains, based on the weight of said neutralizing composition, from about 0.2% to about 20% by weight of oxidizing agent and from about 0.2% to about 50% by weight of said detergent.
3. A process according to Claim 2 in which:
(a) said reducing agent is selected from the group consisting of thioglycollic acid and alkali metal salts of sulfurous acids;
(b) said oxidizing agent is sodium or potassium bromate; and (c) said detergent is sodium or ammonium laureth sulfate.
(a) said reducing agent is selected from the group consisting of thioglycollic acid and alkali metal salts of sulfurous acids;
(b) said oxidizing agent is sodium or potassium bromate; and (c) said detergent is sodium or ammonium laureth sulfate.
4. A PROCESS according to Claim 1, 2 or 3 in which said cationic polymer is ONAMER M and has a molecular weight in the range of from about 1000 to about 3000.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US11447980A | 1980-01-23 | 1980-01-23 | |
| US114,479 | 1980-01-23 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA1138341A true CA1138341A (en) | 1982-12-28 |
Family
ID=22355472
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA000348455A Expired CA1138341A (en) | 1980-01-23 | 1980-03-26 | Waving composition from a reducing agent and cationic polymer |
Country Status (18)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPS56150009A (en) |
| AU (1) | AU540290B2 (en) |
| BE (1) | BE887219A (en) |
| BR (1) | BR8100183A (en) |
| CA (1) | CA1138341A (en) |
| CH (1) | CH646039A5 (en) |
| DE (1) | DE3100737A1 (en) |
| DK (1) | DK29481A (en) |
| FR (1) | FR2473883B1 (en) |
| GB (1) | GB2068031B (en) |
| GR (1) | GR73514B (en) |
| IE (1) | IE50814B1 (en) |
| IT (1) | IT1170644B (en) |
| NL (1) | NL8100258A (en) |
| NZ (1) | NZ195964A (en) |
| PH (1) | PH18975A (en) |
| SE (1) | SE456475B (en) |
| ZA (1) | ZA81198B (en) |
Families Citing this family (17)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US5196189A (en) * | 1974-05-16 | 1993-03-23 | Societe Anonyme Dite: L'oreal | Quaternized polymer for use as a cosmetic agent in cosmetic compositions for the hair and skin |
| US4948579A (en) * | 1974-05-16 | 1990-08-14 | Societe Anonyme Dite: L'oreal | Quaternized polymer for use as a cosmetic agent in cosmetic compositions for the hair and skin |
| AT365448B (en) * | 1975-07-04 | 1982-01-11 | Oreal | COSMETIC PREPARATION |
| FR2495931A2 (en) * | 1980-12-12 | 1982-06-18 | Oreal | Hair perming by redn. and oxidn. - in presence of cationic polymer and anionic surfactant |
| US4416297A (en) * | 1980-01-23 | 1983-11-22 | Clairol Incorporated | Hair waving or straightening process and product |
| US4407791A (en) * | 1981-09-28 | 1983-10-04 | Alcon Laboratories, Inc. | Ophthalmic solutions |
| NZ203095A (en) * | 1982-02-08 | 1986-10-08 | Bristol Myers Co | Aqueous hair waving compositions and packages containing them |
| CA1196576A (en) * | 1982-02-22 | 1985-11-12 | Stanley H. Pohl | Composition and process for the dyeing of hair |
| US4656043A (en) * | 1985-09-13 | 1987-04-07 | Richardson-Vicks Inc. | Peroxide-containing conditioning shampoo |
| BR8905998A (en) * | 1988-02-19 | 1990-05-08 | Amethyst Investment Group Inc | PROCESS FOR HAIR CURLING |
| US4996997A (en) * | 1988-02-19 | 1991-03-05 | Amethyst Investment Group, Inc. | Permanent waving process and compositions |
| US5415856A (en) * | 1990-05-08 | 1995-05-16 | Preemptive Advertising Inc. | Hair treatment compositions containing disaccharides |
| US6723308B2 (en) | 2001-11-02 | 2004-04-20 | Kenra, Llc | Hair clarifying treatment |
| US6805136B2 (en) | 2001-11-02 | 2004-10-19 | Kenra, Llc | Hair relaxer |
| FR3004642B1 (en) * | 2013-04-19 | 2015-05-22 | Oreal | COSMETIC HAIR RELAXATION AND / OR VOLUME REDUCTION CAPILLARY COMPOSITION AND COSMETIC TREATMENT METHOD USING THE SAME |
| US20160058686A1 (en) * | 2013-04-19 | 2016-03-03 | L'oreal | Cosmetic haircare composition for relaxing curls and/or for reducing volume |
| FR3004643B1 (en) * | 2013-04-19 | 2015-07-03 | Oreal | METHOD FOR LOOP RETENTION AND / OR KERATIN FIBER SMOOTHING USING A REDUCING COMPOSITION AND A NEUTRALIZING COMPOSITION, AND A CLEANING KIT |
Family Cites Families (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GB1113816A (en) * | 1965-11-24 | 1968-05-15 | Hercules Inc | Improvements in or relating to process and composition for the waving of hair |
| IT1035032B (en) * | 1970-02-25 | 1979-10-20 | Gillette Co | COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND PACKAGING THAT CONTAINS IT |
| DE2213671A1 (en) * | 1972-03-21 | 1973-10-04 | Cosmital Sa | METHODS AND MEANS FOR THE PERMANENT DEFORMING OF HAIR. |
| DE2347832C2 (en) * | 1973-09-22 | 1982-07-29 | Wella Ag, 6100 Darmstadt | Process for the permanent deformation of hair |
| FR2368508A2 (en) * | 1977-03-02 | 1978-05-19 | Oreal | HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION |
| JPS5261237A (en) * | 1975-11-13 | 1977-05-20 | Oreal | New cosmetic compound on basis of quaternarized polymer |
| AU512531B2 (en) * | 1975-11-13 | 1980-10-16 | L'oreal | Process and composition for dyeing hair |
| LU76955A1 (en) * | 1977-03-15 | 1978-10-18 | ||
| LU78153A1 (en) * | 1977-09-20 | 1979-05-25 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS BASED ON QUATERNARY POLYAMMONIUM POLYMERS AND PREPARATION PROCESS |
| FR2472382A1 (en) * | 1979-12-28 | 1981-07-03 | Oreal | Hair perming by redn. and oxidn. - in presence of cationic polymer and anionic surfactant |
-
1980
- 1980-03-26 CA CA000348455A patent/CA1138341A/en not_active Expired
-
1981
- 1981-01-06 NZ NZ195964A patent/NZ195964A/en unknown
- 1981-01-06 AU AU66019/81A patent/AU540290B2/en not_active Ceased
- 1981-01-09 FR FR8100273A patent/FR2473883B1/en not_active Expired
- 1981-01-13 BR BR8100183A patent/BR8100183A/en unknown
- 1981-01-13 ZA ZA00810198A patent/ZA81198B/en unknown
- 1981-01-13 DE DE19813100737 patent/DE3100737A1/en not_active Ceased
- 1981-01-20 NL NL8100258A patent/NL8100258A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1981-01-21 PH PH25111A patent/PH18975A/en unknown
- 1981-01-21 GR GR63932A patent/GR73514B/el unknown
- 1981-01-21 SE SE8100340A patent/SE456475B/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1981-01-22 DK DK29481A patent/DK29481A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1981-01-22 IE IE112/81A patent/IE50814B1/en unknown
- 1981-01-22 IT IT47616/81A patent/IT1170644B/en active
- 1981-01-22 GB GB8101959A patent/GB2068031B/en not_active Expired
- 1981-01-23 BE BE0/203589A patent/BE887219A/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1981-01-23 CH CH45381A patent/CH646039A5/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1981-01-23 JP JP804381A patent/JPS56150009A/en active Pending
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| DK29481A (en) | 1981-07-24 |
| FR2473883B1 (en) | 1986-06-27 |
| BE887219A (en) | 1981-07-23 |
| DE3100737A1 (en) | 1982-01-28 |
| AU540290B2 (en) | 1984-11-08 |
| JPS56150009A (en) | 1981-11-20 |
| FR2473883A1 (en) | 1981-07-24 |
| SE456475B (en) | 1988-10-10 |
| GR73514B (en) | 1984-03-08 |
| IT8147616A0 (en) | 1981-01-22 |
| GB2068031B (en) | 1983-09-01 |
| AU6601981A (en) | 1981-07-30 |
| BR8100183A (en) | 1981-07-28 |
| ZA81198B (en) | 1983-02-23 |
| NL8100258A (en) | 1981-08-17 |
| IT8147616A1 (en) | 1982-07-22 |
| SE8100340L (en) | 1981-07-24 |
| CH646039A5 (en) | 1984-11-15 |
| IE810112L (en) | 1981-07-23 |
| IT1170644B (en) | 1987-06-03 |
| PH18975A (en) | 1985-11-26 |
| GB2068031A (en) | 1981-08-05 |
| NZ195964A (en) | 1984-07-06 |
| IE50814B1 (en) | 1986-07-23 |
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